Berlin's Tiergarten
It’s another very good park. Perhaps it’s because it was Wednesday when I was there, perhaps it’s because all Berliners are away on holiday or perhaps Berlin is just like this, but there seemed to be at least as many people tending the Tiergarten yesterday – weeding, sweeping, digging things up - as there were enjoying it. But it was good to see they’re looking after it. The south-eastern quarter of the Tiergarten (I mean the big bit, south and east of the Siegessäule) is quite varied: Bellevue Allee is as straight, broad and grand a formal avenue as you could want, but you’ll also find windy little ways and green shaded walks in there, as well as Liegewiesen. In some parts of the park you’re asked not to walk on the grass (near the flower-beds of the Luiseninsel for instance, where they really do seem to have attracted butterflies, as they claim – that part is protected by gates to keep rabbits out, too). Although whether the Berliners actually obey these orders is another matter: there are signs prohibiting barbecues, too, but also evidence here and there that this rule is not always kept. In other parts however you’re positively encouraged to get on and flop as much as you like. A Liegewiese is a field for lying down in, so if you see that sign you know you’re okay. I especially liked the big one with the bench round the tree.
The Tiergarten is a bit like Central Park, it struck me as I walked around it. It’s not as important in Berlin life as Central Park is in New York’s. It’s smaller, too, and if anything it’s even more difficult here to get away from the constant sound of traffic. And the Tiergarten is pretty flat. One thing this park has that New York hasn’t, though, is lots of old-fashioned signs telling you what path you’re on in, written in fabulous gothic fraktur script. I’m easily pleased by typography.
The south-eastern quarter is less interesting in a way – there’s not so much space to lounge around in and the paths are less varied – but to offset that, the walkways are more relaxed and shaded, and the views over the Neuer See, where people row boats aimlessly, are very nice indeed. Something that puzzled me here was what all the people were doing standing around (they all seemed to have shooting-sticks, or whatever the name is for the modern equivalent of those contraptions, but weren’t sitting on them) in groups of two or three, holding hands, talking, apparently under the supervision of some group-leader, hugging sometimes even. Was this some sort of religious demonstration? A form of therapy?
Keep going along the Grosse Weg in this part of the garden and eventually you cross a bridge to your left to head through the Schleuseninsel where the lake meets the Landwehrkanal, or doesn’t, quite – I couldn’t tell. Near there (just by the bridge over the lock – behind the blue building) you’ll find a fun little Biergarten, the Schleusenkrug. What a terrific institution these places are! Go up to the window and ask for what you want – it’s self-service – then find your place on a seat or bench among the Germans. This was one of the few places, perhaps the only place in Berlin where I heard not one foreign voice, as I sat in the half-shade drinking a Berliner Weisse – mit grün. That’s a very Berlin drink, if slightly touristy – a light sort of beer flavoured either with raspberry (mit rot) or with Waldmeister, which I think is woodruff although to be frank I've no idea what that is even in English.
Toll der Tiergarten! as a small boy might say in a German language book for learners. It’s excellent. Give yourself another view on the water as you head back towards Berlin Mitte by walking along the banks of the lake (under the fabulous vintage or vintage-style lamps – the Germans are much better than we are at convincing replicas) or along the Landwehrkanal, which will give you a free mini-look at the Zoo.
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